Endeavour® Marine Timber Finishes

EXTERNAL APPLICATION / PROCEDURES GUIDE

PRIOR TO INITIAL WAX-SEALING OF EXPOSED TIMBERS YOU MUST FIRSTLY
HAVE 1 (ONE ONLY) RECENT APPLICATION OF OIL. THESE VITAL NUTRIENTS,
CRITICAL FOR TIMBER’S RESILIENCE TO EXPOSURE, WILL BE SUPPLEMENTED
AND HELD BY THE ENSUING/ONGOING WAX IMPREGNATIONS.

TOPSIDE DECKING / WALK-ON SURFACES
This is a key function for our product to perform, so please pay close attention to the
initial process –seriously consider contracting professional detailing services to conduct
the primary set-up (subsequent maintenance is readily conducted by careful person).
Special Notes:
a) Old decks, where timber is weathered/worn below the caulking, require a hard-sanding (45º cross-sand may be necessary first) so as to take the caulking to level
with the wood prior to oil-priming. Do this as you may better retain the integrity
of the remainder.
b) New or relaid decks must have their caulking compound permitted to dry/harden
for a minimum 8 weeks prior to oiling/waxing.

INITIAL PREPARATION, OIL PRIMING & WAX APPLICATION STEPS
1. Thoroughly wash/scrub down surfaces with appropriate cleaning agent – rinse
off thoroughly and leave to dry (minimum a full day’s dry, sunny conditions).
2. Dry sand surfaces to 120 grit paper (DO NOT sand finer; commencing grits relevant
to state of surface) then remove all sawdust/grit. At this point consider the benefits
of masking up non-timber formwork. (this is very relevant if applying "GOLD TEAKWOOD" Priming Oil).
3. Mid-morning, and with dry weather foreseeable, apply 1 (one only) coat of Endeavourâ
Priming Oil (sparingly on new timber) with brush or applicator.
Note: DO NOT overload the timber with oil – we want some available “saturation point” into which the wax will impregnate/reside. Leave to penetrate approx. 20-30 minutes then brush/cloth in any evident excess oil; by this time also cloth wipe off any oil splatters/runs on other formwork.
4. Remove any masking tape and allow oil to cure/dry for minimum 14 days (maximum
60 days) prior to waxing.
Note: The timber is now, in the interim, weather-protected and from
next day onwards you may use your vessel during this curing period.
5. Once elapsed, lightly wash surfaces down with biodegradable, non-acid/chlorine cleaner
(eg. Organoil’s Wash-a-Way), rinse off and allow to dry.
6. Lightly sand surfaces with 240/320 grit paper then remove all sawdust/grit.
7. WHEN APPLYING WAX, COOL AND DRY CONDITIONS ARE NECESSARY. Working,
a maximum of your given reach at a time, apply wax with palm of your hand (on level decks)
or stiff-bristled pasting brush (where caulking channels are below wood’s surface), working
wax in until paste dissipates into the timber and your hand/brush begins to ‘grab’ at surface.
Firmly rub over with white, synthetic woven pad/s, then buff over with lint-free cloth. Continue
this process to completion.
Professional tip: If it is taking ages for wax to dissipate into timber and/or you
are clogging numerous synthetic pads you are probably being too heavy-handed
in wax dispensing. Also, do not leave excess wax in caulking channels!
8. Upon completion, and within 1–2 hours, wet down all such areas (gauge it along the lines
of several minutes of light, persistent rain) then immediately and thoroughly sponge-
mop/chamois all water off the surface. We are seeking to cause an overall and even paling
of the finish (also restricts spot water-marking occurring later), facilitate curing/hardening
of impregnated wax, and activate ‘grip’ properties immediately. From next day onwards,
go boating.

NOTE: Should noticeable whitening be evident after this ‘wet-down’ procedure
(or overnight precipitation) it is most likely excess wax above the timber’s surface
(or where White Wax has served as a filler). The excess surface wax should
be cut back with a coarser scourer (green/red) then rubbed over with white pad/s
(leave wax in filler role – in time whiteness will dissipate).

MAINTENANCE:
When seen to be necessary, and ALWAYS prior to rewaxing, wash surfaces down with gentle,
bio-degradable cleaning agent and soft-bristled broom. When clean and dry, re-wax surfaces
every 6–12 months, fully repeating steps 7 and 8 given above; although be very sparing with
wax in areas showing little or no wear. When conducting re-waxing you may find applying
wax with cloth wad to be more efficient; although we want initial load-in to be conducted with
palm of hand or brush.
Note: If heavily exposed, and left unattended for greater than 12 months,
you may have to commence again with Priming Oil (if timber, when cleaned,
is readily absorbing water, it would be indicative that reoiling is required –
return to Step 1 and start again.)
COVERAGE: Approx 15 sq mtrs per 500 ml (1 heaped dessertspoon per sq metre)

ALL OTHER EXTERNAL TRIM/JOINERY
From raw timber the INITIAL process is the same procedural steps as given
for TOPSIDE DECKING, except for:
Step 6. For gleaming trim, you have an option with this preparatory sand (between oiling
and waxing) where you may wish to sand finer, through the grits to say 600/800 grit paper,
so as the ensuing wax finish may deliver a higher patina/shine.
Step 8. This ‘wet-down’ procedure is ONLY required for topside decking/walk-on surfaces;
with all other work do NOT conduct this procedure.
Note: Finishing toe/cap/bump rails after decking work may be prudent.

Special Notes:
a) Any existing coating systems (or remnants of such) must be sanded entirely
off the surface. If blackening (mould/fungus) is then evident in the grain, also
wash/scrub out with appropriate cleaning agent – when dry, sand again to 120
grit paper – then remove all sawdust/grit (this will put you at step 2 of the initial
procedure, then continue through to step 7)
b) Existing oil-finished/maintained timber – if it has been oiled within last 4 months
(and don’t forget min. 14 day curing requirement) proceed straight to step 5 of
INITIAL procedure – if it has been greater than 4 months since last oiled commence
from step 1, through to step 7.

MAINTENANCE:
To remove light scuff marks/grime, rub areas with dry, white synthetic pad (for more severe
marring use WHITE WAX as cutting medium on white pad) then cloth buff over. Lightly wash
occasionally with gentle bio-degradable cleaning agent. Rewax surfaces every 6–12 months
(after ensuring surfaces are clean and dry) repeat step 7 only.

INTERNAL CABINETRY FINISHING GUIDE

SPECIAL NOTES (on existing finished woodwork):
a) Where woodwork is coated with a varnish/acrylic these must be sanded
off ENTIRELY prior to using Endeavour® products.
b) Where woodwork has previously been oiled, you will not be able to lighten
the colour-depth existing. You would, given a preparatory fine surface sand and application/buffing of 1 or 2 coats of White Wax, achieve a brighter, satin patina.
If waxing over Endeavour® Finishing Oil also ensure a min. 14 days curing/drying period of the oil has elapsed.

SURFACE PREPARATION AND WAX APPLICATION STEPS
1. Sand down surfaces, through the paper grits to say 600 – 1200 (the finer the better). Upon completion, remove ALL sawdust/grit.
2. In a circular motion, apply wax sparingly and evenly with palm of hand or lint-free cloth.
Note: Given time-frames of next step 3, apply to only several square metres of surface area at a time.
3. Leave under ventilation to go tacky (approx. 5 minutes in WINTER/15 minutes in SUMMER) then firmly buff/rub over with fresh, lint-free cloth.
Note: If your cloth is overly grabbing, you may be approaching the buff/rub too early (wait a few more minutes), OR, you may have over-applied wax to surfaces (rub excess off with white, synthetic scourers, then cloth buff over).
4. Leave project for min. 24 hours, then repeat steps 2) and 3) as stated above.
Note: Repeating a third application/buff is optional for higher-level finishing.
5. Should you then power buff with lambswool (a further, min. 48 hours after last waxing) patina/shine is again enhanced.
6. Now leave finished project to fully cure/air-dry for 5-7 days (avoiding spills or objects
placed on).

MAINTENANCE
Dust off occasionally with cloth. To remove light scuff marks/grime, rub areas with dry, white synthetic pad (for more severe marring use White Wax as cutting medium on white pad) then cloth buff over. Re-wax (1 application only) and polish every 4-5 years.